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Home / Notas  / La tronchita de Esquel Un viaje en el tiempo que une la ciudad con la estepa

La tronchita de Esquel Un viaje en el tiempo que une la ciudad con la estepa

Tres veces a la semana en invierno y de lunes a sábado en verano, el Viejo Expreso Patagónico “La Trochita” recorre regularmente un trayecto que parte de Esquel y descansa en la estepa de

Tres veces a la semana en invierno y de lunes a sábado en verano, el Viejo Expreso Patagónico “La Trochita” recorre regularmente un trayecto que parte de Esquel y descansa en la estepa de Nahuel Pan, antes de emprender la vuelta. Se trata de un paseo de tres horas en un tren a vapor de casi cien años, que entretiene y emociona a los turistas de todas las edades y procedencias.

El viaje sin tiempo
El fuego en la caldera, el sonido del silbato, un temblor de avance y La Trochita empieza a moverse con ese traqueteo icónico, con el que parece iniciarse la magia de un viaje sin tiempo. El envolvente paisaje de Esquel durante 50 minutos muta en la amplia estepa de Nahuel Pan, a lo largo de 18 kilómetros. Se asciende 200 metros en un camino de curvas en el que la nieve se vuelve cada vez más intensa.

Desde lo alto, la inmensidad del Valle se observa en todo su esplendor. La llamada Curva del Huevo demanda una característica postal a la que no hay cámara fotográfica ni teléfono celular que se pueda resistir: desde los últimos vagones se captura al tren doblando en toda su extensión. Al llegar a Nahuel Pan, la locomotora se desengancha para cambiarse de lado, de modo tal que los primeros vagones quedan a lo último.

El Viejo Expreso Patagónico pasa sobre el arroyo Esquel apenas sale, cruza el camino a La Hoya y atraviesa nada menos que la mágica Ruta 40, esa arteria extensa que de norte a sur recorre la geografía nacional, paralela a la Cordillera de Los Andes. Ovejas, vacas, caballos y liebres, completan el paisaje, configurando la escenografía perfecta para el paso del tren.

Adentro, La Trochita, refugia el pasado. Los chicos curiosos se sorprenden con los asientos, con las ventanas, admiran de cerca al maquinista y si tienen la posibilidad, lo invaden de preguntas. Que cómo funciona este tren, de cuándo es, por qué despide ese humo, por qué es tan antiguo, son algunas de las cuestiones que se repiten. Una pareja mayor le cuenta a una ocasional familia amiga que su primera vez en La Trochita fue hace 50 años en el viaje de Luna de Miel y que ahora la están redescubriendo como paseo turístico para celebrar las bodas de oro.
Un hombre solo, se emociona hasta las lágrimas recordando sus tiempos de conscripto, tantas décadas atrás, sobre ese mismo tren. Dos amigos, de rodillas, alimentan la salamandra con leños para dar un ambiente cálido al viaje. Un poco más atrás, una pareja de extranjeros europeos porta máquina de fotos, planos, un libro sobre trenes con ilustraciones de altísima calidad y señala hacia el techo, como descubriendo aquellos detalles sobre los que supo leer tantas veces.

Una guía especializada narra la historia del ferrocarril en la Patagonia y responde consultas de los pasajeros. Un cantautor recorre los vagones cual juglar con sus interpretaciones y un fotógrafo registra los inolvidables momentos del viaje y ofrece sus servicios a los viajantes.

En Nahuel Pan, se hace un alto en el paseo para que en poco menos de una hora, los pasajeros puedan conocer este pequeño paraje Mapuche Tehuelche, visitar el Museo de Culturas Originarias Patagónicas, la casa de las Artesanas y la Feria Tokom topayiñ.

Acto seguido, la vuelta; la hora que completa el viaje. El recorrido a la inversa: la estepa que se vuelve ciudad. Y La Trochita que retorna al presente, regresando a sus pasajeros a la vida donde el reloj no regala segundos. Pero algo ha cambiado a partir de esta experiencia inolvidable: los abrazos agradecidos, las miradas, las palabras que tardan en salir, los ojos empañados de emoción que no dan tregua. El tiempo se suspende, ahí queda La Trochita, esperando un nuevo contingente para atravesar el tiempo.

Una huella en el desierto
La historia de La Trochita está ligada a un proyecto de principios del siglo XX para expandir la red ferroviaria nacional hacia la Patagonia, con una traza que llegara al sur del Sur y que uniera el Océano con la cordillera. El antecedente cercano es el arribo del tren a Ingeniero Jacobacci, en Río Negro, en 1917. Cinco años después, se encargan las locomotoras y los vagones, más no será hasta 1945 que la traza sumará 402 kilómetros en un trayecto de 600 curvas para llegar finalmente a Esquel.

Durante su primer lustro de vida, el Expreso Patagónico “La Trochita” transportó carga y fue recién en 1950 cuando empezó a llevar pasajeros, constituyéndose en el medio de transporte principal de los habitantes del noroeste de Chubut. Hacia 1960 y 1970, “La Trochita” ocupa un lugar central en la vida de los pueblos cuyas estaciones visita en su traza y es a partir de la proliferación del transporte automotor, principalmente con los camiones y los ómnibus, y de la apertura de los caminos; cuando su vida útil empieza a verse comprometida.

En los tiempos del cierre de los ferrocarriles en la última década del siglo XX, la reconversión turística de “La Trochita” la mantuvo viva. Frente a la decisión nacional de prescindir del trabajo ferroviario, fueron las provincias de Río Negro y Chubut quienes decidieron apostar por su continuidad.

Un cuarto de siglo después, la vieja máquina de 1922 es un testimonio vivo de un medio de transporte central para el desarrollo nacional y particularmente para el poblado de la Patagonia. El vapor disparado al cielo desde la chimenea, sus vagones de madera, la salamandra encendida y ese andar entre candoroso y cansino, invitan todo el año a los pasajeros a conmoverse y dejarse atrapar por un pedazo de historia que sigue marchando.

Vida ferroviaria
El Viejo Expreso Patagónico La Trochita, como se ha dicho, data de 1922. Se trata de un medio de transporte que ya no existe. En Esquel hay un galpón donde se realizan las reparaciones primarias y en El Maiten está el Taller donde se hacen las reparaciones más importantes e incluso la fabricación de las piezas. Viejos y valiosos planos permiten reproducirlas con exactitud ya que, se entenderá, no hay lugar en el mundo que pueda proveer repuestos de un vehículo tan añejo.

En lo que a maquinistas refiere, actualmente cuenta con dos, que conducen La Trochita desde antes de su reconversión turística, cuando todavía era un medio de transporte que resistía al paso del tiempo y el avance de los camiones y los ómnibus. A sabiendas del éxito turístico que viene representando, está en marcha la preparación de futuros maquinistas. Formados en Ingeniero Jacobacci e hijos de ferroviarios, estos “foguistas” practican con sus maestros, los actuales maquinistas, para asumir con responsabilidad la tarea que les espera.

Servicios
En verano, se viaja hasta dos veces por día, de lunes a sábados. En invierno, tres veces a la semana, ya que mover el tren es muy costoso y sólo se habilitan los viajes si se cuenta con pasajeros. Hay vagones de primera clase, con asientos acolchonados, en los que pueden viajar hasta 25 pasajeros; y vagones de clase turista, con asientos de madera, que se completa con 32 a 36 pasajeros. Antes había una diferencia de precio según el vagón, hoy es por orden de llegada.

En cuanto a las tarifas, hay un ticket general de 1260 pesos; para residentes nacionales es de 750; jubilados y estudiantes universitarios del país, 530; residentes de Esquel y Trevelin, 390; menores de 6 a 12 años, 450; y personas con discapacidades que presenten la acreditación correspondiente, viajan de manera gratuita. Es de destacar también que La Trochita cuenta con un vagón adaptado con rampas para sillas de ruedas.

Esquel cuenta además con el Paseo Ferroviario, que es un espacio que funciona en la antigua estación y que presenta una exhibición permanente de artículos, imágenes y documentación histórica de La Trochita. Se trata de la estación original: un edificio pequeño, de techo bajo y revestido en chapa, característico de la Patagonia, que invita a hacer un recorrido autoguiado una hora antes y hasta media hora después de la salida y la llegada del tren.

Además del servicio Esquel – Nahuelpan, también está el circuito El Maitén – desvío Thomae y se puede contratar un viaje especial (charter) que cubre el antiguo recorrido de La Trochita, tanto los 402 kilómetros entre Esquel e Ingeniero Jacobacci como los 160 que dividen a Esquel con El Maitén.

Estos “charters” se organizan con al menos seis meses de antelación, por las tareas de mantenimiento y seguridad que requieren.

Para consultar sobre estos servicios, comunicarse por e-mail a info@latrochita.org.ar.

Para más información y consultas
Secretaría de Turismo de Esquel
+54 2945 451927/453145/455652
infoturismo@esquel.gov.ar
www.esquel.tur.ar

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Cette attitude vigilante du médecin traitant doit se retrouver lorsque nous envisageons le recours à une « roqya ». Pour illustrer ce propos, nous citerons l’exemple de l’anthropologue, spécialiste de l’islam européen, Farid El Asri, chercheur associé au Centre Jacques Berque, qui nous rapporte une situation alarmante suite à une « roqya » : « Une jeune femme en Belgique (…) est morte suite à une tentative d’exorcisme. Pendant les séances, les fkihs (imams) utilisent normalement de l’eau « coranisée ». Pour cette jeune femme, prétendument stérile, les exorcistes ont carrément plongé son visage dans l’eau et quand elle tentait d’en sortir pour respirer, les guérisseurs estimaient qu’il s’agissait du jinn qui l’habitait et ils replongeaient son visage dans l’eau. Pendant le procès, la famille de la défunte s’est présentée comme musulmane et a accusé ces pratiques d’être extérieures à l’islam quand les guérisseurs estimaient qu’ils avaient simplement fait ce qu’ils pouvaient. Le fait de recourir trop systématiquement au fkih risque également de faire passer une crise d’épilepsie, par exemple, pour une crise de possession. »[3] Nous allons aborder enfin la dernière problématique, celle relative aux honoraires du soignant. III- Les honoraires du soignant Le Prophète, bénédictions et salut sur lui, « a agréé les Compagnons qui ont été payés pour la roqya ». Il est dès lors autorisé de rémunérer un soignant en contrepartie d’une prestation. Toutefois, cette rémunération doit être raisonnable et surtout clairement définie avant le traitement. En outre, nous ne pouvons que souligner et rappeler que, si la roqya est réalisée dans un cadre sérieux, il convient de procéder à toutes les déclarations administratives. Comme pour tout contrat, vous devez exiger un document écrit et le praticien doit préciser quels sont ses engagements exacts afin d’éviter tout litige postérieur. 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